It’s Not a Phase, Mom: The Emo Makeup Look is Back (& I’m So Here For It)

Let’s set the scene: It’s 2007. My bedroom walls are covered in Fall Out Boy posters, my side bangs are so teased they could deflect bullets, and my makeup bag consists of exactly three things: the blackest eyeliner I could find, the cheapest electric blue eyeshadow, and a stick of concealer to achieve that coveted “I-sleep-all-day” pallor. I thought those days were behind me. But then TikTok got its hands on it, and honestly? The 2024 emo makeup revival is everything I didn’t know I needed.

But before you dig out that crusty, decade-old eyeliner pencil, let’s talk. The new emo look isn’t about slapping on a raccoon eye. It’s an elevated, more intentional form of alt-beauty—think less “rawr means I love you in dinosaur” and more “moody runway model.” It’s about embracing drama and self-expression with a slightly more skilled hand. As your resident alt-beauty bestie, I’m going to break down how to get the modern emo aesthetic.

The Modern Emo Makeup Checklist: Key Elements

1. The Skin: Matte & Pale, But Not Flat
The goal is a porcelain, matte canvas. This doesn’t mean caking on a too-light foundation! Instead, focus on a flawless, matte base that matches your skin tone perfectly.

• My Go-To: Estée Lauder Double Wear Stay-in-Place Foundation is the ultimate for a full-coverage, transfer-proof matte finish.
• Pro Tip: Use a lightweight concealer like Tarte Shape Tape under the eyes to brighten just a little and avoid a completely flat face. Contour lightly to add some dimension back.

2. The Eyes: Smoky, Smudgy, and Deeply Dramatic
This is the heart and soul of the look. Forget one thick line of eyeliner; we’re building a smoky, blended masterpiece.

• The Eyeliner: You need a jet-black, waterproof formula. Tightline your upper waterline, and smudge it along your lower lash line. For the wing, I swear by the Maybelline New York TattooStudio Sharpenable Gel Pencil—it’s the smudgiest, most perfect black ever.
• The Shadow: Build a smoky eye using blacks, deep charcoals, and maybe a touch of burgundy or navy in the crease. The Urban Decay Naked2 Basics Palette is perfect for building this blendable, grungy depth.
• The Mascara: Lashes. Lots of them. Clump your mascara on purpose for that lived-in, punk-rock feel, or throw on some spiky individual falsies. Maybelline Lash Sensational Sky High Mascara layered over itself will give you that perfect clumpy texture.

3. The Brows: Bold and Defined
Brows shouldn’t be an afterthought. They frame the dramatic eyes. Fill them in to be full and defined, but avoid the overly skinny, severely plucked look of the mid-2000s. A Anastasia Beverly Hills Brow Wiz will give you that precise, bold shape.

4. The Lips: Dark and Stained
The modern lip is less about a perfectly applied dark lipstick and more about a blurred, stained effect. Think deep berries, burgundies, and even black cherry.

• How-To: Apply a dark lip color like NYX Soft Matte Lip Cream in Copenhagen or a deep lip liner, then use your finger to blur the edges for that just-kissed, moody look.

The Honest Pros & Cons

Pros:

• Ultra-Expressive: This look is a powerful form of self-expression and creativity. It’s a confident, statement-making style.
• Nostalgic Fun: It’s a blast to revisit and reinvent a look from your youth with your current skills.
• Hides Sleep Deprivation: The dark circles are part of the aesthetic. You’re not tired, you’re committed to the bit.

Cons:

• Time-Consuming: Achieving a perfectly blended smoky eye and sharp liner takes practice and time. This isn’t a quick 5-minute makeup look.
• High Maintenance: You’ll need waterproof everything to avoid ending up with black smudges down your face by midday.
• Panda Eyes Risk: If not done carefully, the look can easily veer into unblended, messy territory instead of intentional grunge.

So, are you ready to throw on some My Chemical Romance and break out the black eyeliner? What was your signature emo band back in the day? Let me know if you’re trying this revival trend!